A Glimpse of CPHFW AW26

Copenhagen Fashion Week’s trends through the eyes of editor Kayla Curtis-Evans with photos by Adrian Molina

Landing in Copenhagen after a cramped flight felt like a long exhale. The fresh city air filled my lungs — though just as brisk as New York City’s brash winds, it somehow always feels comparably cleaner. Both cities have their own charms, but something about Copenhagen feels extra magical. I made my way to the Metro so I could check into my hotel and revel in small moments of peace before the games began. 

I had a (rare) two free days to frolic ahead of the races. I studied in Copenhagen in 2019, earning a large chunk of my Environmental Science degree at the University of Copenhagen. It felt surreal to revisit the quaint city over six years later, viewing it through a completely new lens. Over the course of those first few days, I stuffed my face with pastries, purchased cute home decor baubles for my tiny NYC abode, and lounged while I could. Before I knew it, the fashion week schedule ensued. 

On the evening of Monday, January 26, I filed into a wide-open room — along with other editors, influencers, and buyers for the CPHFW Opening Cocktail. You can always tell the difference between all three based on their uniforms. Mine for the day was quintessentially KCE: clashing patterns with a fun hat as the cherry on top. As the week rolled on, I’d find myself in a lot more rooms — some ornate and echoing, while others were small spaces meant to emulate a more intimate show setting. Gestural looks reminiscent of dancing water would flow in front of me, as well as contrasting textures and layered silhouettes — two style tenets the Danes are known for. 

I’d also spend a good portion of the week filing in and out of booths at CIFF — Europe’s largest fashion fair, and one that I like to call the Coachella of trade shows. It’s like a maze that goes on and on forever, and it’s the perfect destination to observe the emerging trends coming out of the Scandinavian region. 

Although I recommend everyone visit Denmark if the chance arises, I’ve compiled all of the prevalent trends from this past Autumn/Winter season — as well as my time at CIFF — so you don’t have to. Dive in below for your guide to Scandi Style 101: 

Luscious Layering 

When I was younger, I used to bake strawberry shortcakes with my mom (my favorite dessert since I was a child). We used to bake a few sheets and stack them, tucking each strawberry in snug and tight between vanilla sponges. I thought I had mastered the art of layering back then, but I hadn’t seen anything yet. Ever since I first set foot in Copenhagen, my style has drastically changed for the better. And the key is actually quite simple: it’s all about layering, baby. I feel almost naked now when stepping out without a multi-tiered outfit, and this defining styling technique prevails in the region with every oncoming season. 

The show Day 1 excitement was palpable, and OpéraSport opened up the runway festivities with a runway showcase inspired by romantic Venice nights. Liquid recycled satins and sequins were layered together, creating multifaceted ensembles. Ruffles have long been a core part of OpéraSport’s DNA, and they didn’t skimp on the textural element this season either. 

At The Garment’s presentation, the audience was given a quick how-to in classic Scandinavian styling. As an American, when I think of the quintessential Scandi aesthetic, images akin to this entire collection emerge in my mind’s eye. Lace head coverings are the cherry on top of chic, stacked looks. The range’s color palette consisted of muted earth tones, allowing dynamic styling decisions to shine through. One of my favorite looks was a delicate lace moment that showed off a satin skirt layered underneath a lace-lined satin shawl — I could picture any Danish girl pulling off the look with ease. Danish women are so chic. And they can navigate biking in heels, which I think is insanely badass. 

Over at CIFF, Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, layers were abundant. The annual trade show is a hot destination for brand discovery, and I always leave with new, innovative brands in my back pocket. This time around, I spent some time chatting with the brand Je le connais. A unique shoe silhouette from the brand caught my eye: a boot that was meant to look like a classic Mary-Jane layered over a sock. As a Mary-Jane enthusiast, this style made my heart sing. But perhaps the most intriguing element of the style was the fact that it reinterprets the way we think about layering. You don’t have to stop at layering your blouses or frocks — why not try it with your go-to footwear, or even socks? 

Askew Suiting

This was an interesting observation that occurred repeatedly at this past season’s runway showcases. Unsurprising, as the “office siren” aesthetic emerged and reigned supreme for most of 2025 — but particularly intriguing as it signifies our societal shift away from quiet luxury. This shift first became evident, to me, in a post-pandemic era where wearers yearned for more expressive ensembles after enduring lockdown in our shoebox apartments for months on end. Our recently re-emerged affinity for subversive designs paved the way for a lot of recently buzzy collections; Zomer SS26, Prada SS25, Marc Jacobs SS25, and Sandy Liang’s SS26 range were some of my favorites. Now, for the AW26 season, Danish designers seemed to take this subversion one step further. 

At Forza Collective, models strutted down the runway parading classic button-downs with curved or skewed ties. At OpéraSport as well as Herskind, asymmetrical suiting was presented — sometimes layered over jeans for a more casual vibe, but always presented in a polished manner. Bonnetje hosted a presentation at Store Kannikestræde 19 in which a few models paraded looks crafted from deconstructed suit parts — from cuffs to collars. The Garment and Henrik Vibskov followed suit (pun intended) by debuting non-standard co-ord sets, including a one-shoulder blazer and matching suiting that emphasized draping rather than standard tailoring. If anything, this further cements the Danes’ affinity for experimentation — they don’t shy away from the unexpected, and it’s exactly what makes their style so effortlessly cool.

Non-Traditional Necklines:

I’ve never been one to adopt buttoned-up style sensibilities — I’m definitely more of a maximalist than someone who keeps my looks reserved and refined. So to see non-traditional necklines taking over CPHFW runways felt like music to my ears. I think a lot of sartorial exploration trickles down from CPH and Europe in general, and this is a fad that I believe we’ll see more of in the mainstream for seasons to come.

Forza forayed into experimental necklines with Baroque-inspired, whimsical collars and mock neck blouses and dresses. While Gestuz, Baum und Pferdgarten, and menswear label Ranra showed off fur collars — perfect for chilly Copenhagen winters. 

Peplum Prevails
2016 is more than back, so it’s not surprising that many of the nostalgic trends we thought we’d done away with are starting to surface once again. I’m already seeing much more acid wash, as well as chokers and classic bomber jackets, hitting the streets once again. Peplum silhouettes also had us in a chokehold in this expressive era, and it seems that now — a decade later — peplum still prevails.

Forza showed off a very Danish skirt-over-pant peplum silhouette, while OpéraSport also revealed a romantic, date-night-ready look with a baby-pink peplum top starring as the lead. Herskind hopped onto the peplum revival wave with some leather peplum jackets — a biker-chic take on the playful silhouette — as well as a more structured peplum top, given its shape by precise boning. Will you revisit the peplum trend yourself?

By the 30th, the week had reached its course and I packed my bag to return to the States, with a stomach full of cardamom buns and pink wine, lots of show notes, new brands to watch — and, of course — new trends on my mind. I’m looking forward to seeing what the next Spring/Summer season has to bring.